A good landscape design professional will assess your entire property and produce a design in which every element is not only aesthetically pleasing, but also functional. Let’s take a look at two elements – lighting and paving.

Landscape Lighting

In addition to being attractive, lighting should be functional. It is used along pathways for ambiance, as well as safety. Accent lighting on special features or down/up lighting of trees can create a beautiful vista. However, lighting should always be used in moderation because the desired effect is a subtle atmosphere.

Paving

Knowing how to use different paving materials is another good reason to use a professional. For example, the design and positioning of a front walkway can create a perfect space for a large layered planting bed with trees at the corners. Here’s an example of how paving can be incorporated into landscape design.

As a rule, walkways should have interesting geometrical shapes or flowing curves. While the beauty of natural stone can’t be disputed, other materials – even concrete – can look very nice. Brick, loose stone or pavers can also be used.

To sum up, the essence of good landscape design is that overall beauty depends on every single element, no matter how big or small.

• Leaking Around the Valve: This is a pretty obvious symptom of a broken valve, and it could be caused by a number of things. Take a close look where the water is leaking from. Is the source of the leak at the anti-siphon part of the valve? Or is it coming from the solenoid? Or is the leak coming from the valve’s housing? Getting to the underlying issue is the first step in weighing up the cost of irrigation system repair vs. replacement.

• The Valve Doesn’t Turn On: If the valve doesn’t come on with the timer, this could indicate a wiring problem – in which case you’ll need to call an irrigation system repair expert.

• No Water, or Low Water, to the Heads: Pressure problems can be the result of insufficient flow through the valve. The first thing an irrigation system repair technician will do is isolate the source of the problem. He will check to see if all the valves have the same problem, or if only one is affected. If none of the valves are getting enough water, then the problem may be at the pressure vacuum breaker or the main sprinkler shut-off.

Remember, a slight nudge can damage an irrigation system, even if the heads aren’t popped up. And, even if it’s underground, it can still move.

Until recently, this form of irrigation was more commonly used in agricultural and nursery applications, but homeowners are now starting to take advantage of its benefits and uses. You can use a drip irrigation system for your perennial and vegetable gardens, and to water shrubs and trees.

A drip irrigation system involves the placement of tubing and emitters alongside the plants on the ground. Water is slowly dripped into the soil at the root zone by the emitters – as seen in the illustration below.

Because the moisture level is kept at an optimal range, quality and productivity of plants improve.

A drip irrigation system also:

• Prevents disease by reducing water contact with stems, leaves and fruit.
• Allows the rows between plants to stay dry. This reduces weed growth and improves access.
• Saves water, money, time and labor because the system is so efficient.
• Enhances effectiveness on ground that’s uneven.
• Decreases leaching of nutrients and water below the root zone.

You can set a drip irrigation system to run automatically like sprinklers, or you can control it manually. With manual operation, you can take advantage of rainfall before applying water unnecessarily. Since small amounts of water are slowly applied, drip irrigation runs every day, unless it rains.

Mole Crickets

About 1 to 2 inches long, these thick-bodied, beady-eyed insects have highly developed shovel-like forelimbs for swimming and burrowing. They are a serious threat because they feed on leaves, stems and plant roots, but the actual tunneling is considered more damaging to your plants than the feeding.

Long-Tailed Mealy Bug

These pests have been found on no less than 26 families of plants. Dracaena seems to be their favorite host, but most ornamental foliage and flowering plants are at risk. Mealy bugs feed off sap and, in large infestations, pest control is required because they promote the growth of a blackish mold that spoils fruit, compromises tree vigor, and fouls plants.

Aphids (Plant Lice)

Aphids are about 1/8 inch in length and have soft, pear-shaped bodies. Color varies according to the different species, but the most common aphids are black, yellow or green. A distinctive feature of these insects is the two short tubes extending from the ends of their bodies. They feed on the undersides of leaves, stems and flower buds. The damage caused by feeding is not as serious as their ability to transmit plant diseases.

Armored Scales

This is one of the most destructive species of insects. They are identifiable by their protective armored scales. Without pest control management, leaves drop prematurely – often killing portions of branches and twigs. Scales feed on plant stems and trunks.

Dog urine is a common problem that many pet lovers will have to address. It can leave brown, yellow or completely dead patches on an otherwise healthy, lush lawn. Fortunately, there are some lawn care options for dealing with this issue. Try a combination of techniques for best results, but be patient because it will take some time for the dead patches to grow back.

The protein digested by dogs metabolizes into urea, which is a type of nitrogen. When urea comes into contact with plant materials in concentrated amounts, it burns the plants and they die. It’s exactly the same thing as applying too much fertilizer on your grass. The solution is to dilute or neutralize the urea. This can be accomplished in several ways:

1. Use a neutralizing dietary supplement. These are designed to neutralize the urea before it reaches the lawn. Be sure to discuss this option with a vet because changing the pH balance in your dog’s urine can have adverse health effects.
2. Use a neutralizing product especially made for lawn care application. Follow the package instructions carefully because they vary from product to product.
3. As soon as the dog urinates, thoroughly water the affected area to eliminate or lessen the burning effect and dilute the area. But be careful not to overwater – this is a bad lawn care practice.
4. Ensure your dog remains well-hydrated to prevent its urine from being too concentrated. This will greatly reduce the burning effect.
5. Consider using a variety of grass that has nitrogen-resistant properties such as Zoysia, Fescue or Perennial Rye.

Winter time is a peculiar time of year for Florida as it opens the door for weeds to invade our lawn.  Have you ever drove around in early spring and looked at all the brown yards sprinkled with green?  You’d be surprised to know the sprinkles of green are actually thriving weeds and the brown is the dead St. Augustine grass.  It’s sad because it doesn’t have to be that way.  Here’s some (inexpensive) things we can do now to ensure a healthy lawn through winter and build a stronger landscape for spring.

PRE EMERGENTS

Pre Emergents are important to apply as soon as the temperatures drop because we have such a short window.  Too hot and it kills our lawn.  Too cold and it does nothing to weeds.  A pre emergent is a cluster of chemicals designed to prevent broadleaf weeds from growing.  It’s crucial for winterizing your lawn.  Regretfully, Home Depot and Lowes sells consumer grade.  Our advice?  Find a company that can winterize you lawn with or without a contract in place.

FERTILIZATION

Slow release granular fertilizer keeps nutrients on-demand through the winter.  St. Augustine goes through a “hibernation” period by folding it’s foilage and sometimes turning colors, but that doesn’t mean it’s dead.  The stems and roots are alive and it still needs nutrients and water to live.

IRRIGATION & WATER

Depending on where in Florida you live, chances are you’re going to get a freeze.  Make sure you wrap any above ground pipes, like a backflow preventer, with insulation and tape.  The freeze will degrade the PVC making it more brittle come spring time.  Now is the time to get your irrigation heads inspected, adjusted, and fixed.  Why now?  Frankly, because it’s cheap this time of year.  Irrigation companies are extremely busy in the spring time and dead in the winter time.

When the freeze temperatures come, water your lawn in short increments in the middle of the day (if possible).  Watering first thing in the morning or at night will surely kill your St. Augustine.  Like previously mentioned, your grass still needs water, but be conservative.

Hiring a professional landscape company can save you money in the long-run.  Nobody wants to replace their lawn after a hard winter, so make sure you take the proper steps to winterize your lawn.

Let Your Lawn Show You What It Needs

In the summer, you could bet your paycheck that your lawn needed to be mowed once a week. I could also take a gander and say that if I shut my irrigation system off for a couple of weeks that I’d be fine.  Everything is kind of predictable in the Florida summer.  Not so in the fall & winter.  Our advice?  Be prepared, be ready, and listen to your lawn.  If you’re irrigation is broken, now’s a good time to fix it.  The key to fall landscape maintenance is to observe and be ready to act. Your grass and shrubs will tell you what it needs.

Reduced Mowing Frequencies

What’s great about cool weather…grass doesn’t grow fast! I know we all want the manicured lawn, but when cool temps settle in, it’s important to give our grass a break. Weekly mowings need to be reduced to bi-weekly at the maximum.  When the freezes settle in, keep the mowing schedules to mid-day whenever possible to avoid grass stress. Also, change your mowing patterns if you haven’t already done so to avoid rutting.

Watering & Irrigation

As the rains dissipate  you’ll notice an increase in irrigation (depending on early cool temps).  Keep an eye on the color of your grass.  If it starts to turn different shades of green…time to water. If it looks good, don’t bother it.  As the cool temps dip closer to freezing at night, avoid evening and morning irrigation times. When the freezes are an every day/week occurance, water during the day on an as needed basis. Start wrapping above-ground irrigation in insulation (backflow, valve shut-off, etc.)…it’ll save you lots of trouble in the future.

Ask Questions

If you’re a do-it-yourselfer, ask questions if you are not 100% sure what to do.  There’s a lot of good, professional landscape companies out there so pick up the phone and call someone.

Understanding Thatch

Thatch is biologically dead grass. This means there is no biological activity, no decomposing, no anything. It just sits there. It can cause moisture problems with the soil below it making it hard for water to penetrate leading to faster evaporation. This is why you see your grass drying out 1 or 2 days after you water it. In simple terms, thatch can cause a barrier between water and soil. In some cases of hard rain over a long period of time, that barrier of thatch can make it hard for water and moisture to return to normal levels. However, dry lawns are usually the victim of short run times on the irrigation system or an inconsistent watering schedule…not thatch.

Thatch and St. Augustine

St. Augustine is a special kind of grass. It grows horizontal and has a lot of above ground stems. As these stems grow and creep horizontally along the surface, they form a stiff, firm mat on the soil that is easily damaged by the sun. Leaves grow erect from the stems that protect the stems from the sun and the roots grow downward into the soil. It is this mat of stems that is often and wrongly called “thatch.” The mat is an important part of the grass anatomy and not to be confused with thatch.

The Mowing Height Argument

We’ve all heard it from a neighbor, friend, or wanna-be expert: “You’re mowing your grass too high or too low!” Yes, mowing height is critical with St. Augustine, because you have to think about this mat of stems (no stems – no thick lawn). The stem mat is about 2″ (2 inches) thick above the soil in a healthy lawn. If you’re cutting your grass short, you’re mowing the stems! Remember, no stems, no St. Augustine! That’s why lawn professionals recommend at least a 4″ (4 inch) mowing height. It’s pretty simple if you think about the anatomy of St. Augustine.

How to Help

• Use mulching blades
• Bag the clippings if they are at an excessive height
• Bag leaves in the fall instead of mowing them

Bottom Line

Thatch is not the ugly monster we’ve made it out to be. It’s a necessary component in St. Augustine. If you’re worried about thatch buildup, make sure you’re landscape guys are using mulching blades or bagging the excessive clippings. If you think you need to de-thatch your lawn, consult a professional first.  De-thatching can cause permanent damage to your lawn as it severely damages the stems we’ve been talking about.

Basketgrass, being a wild and invasive grass, is found predominantly in moist and shady areas of a lawn and in the groundcovers of forests. Basketgrass thrives in this environment and is able to spread easily since the turf is usually weaker in these areas due to lack of sunlight and other environmental factors.

It can be identified by its wavy leaves, which feature a white mid vein that divides each leaf into two uneven halves.

Basketgrass grows horizonally as well as vertically if untreated

While routine broadleaf weed control can be helpful in the control of this wild grass, complete control is not possible. The main concern is that because this is a wild grass and not a weed, a high dose of herbicide is necessary to kill it. Because the turf is usually already weak in the areas where it is growing, the herbicide is likely to cause the turf to become even weaker making the problem worse.

Basketgrass seen in forested areas as natural groundcover

Some Possible Solutions

The most effective control for this is to correct the cultural problem that exists. Some suggestions include:

• Trim trees to provide more adequate sunlight
• Cut back the watering in shaded areas
• Place sod or plugs in bare areas of lawn
• Make plant beds in areas where grass is weak

University of Florida states, “In south Florida we have about five species of crabgrass. Some are perennial and some are annual. The seeds seem to germinate year-round! One estimate says that each crabgrass plant can produce over 700 tillers and over 200,000 seeds. This makes crabgrass the cockroach of the weed domain!”

Facts about Crabgrass

• Crabgrass is an annual plant.
• It dies at first freeze, but vigorously returns when the heat returns.
• Its seeds can germinate from mid-spring to late summer.
• If a lawn is infested with crabgrass for several consecutive seasons, the soil will become rich with crabgrass seeds, and the problem will increase in severity over time.
• Crabgrass can survive in most soil conditions and is allowed to spread more rapidly when turf is stressed due to drought conditions or other harmful lawn conditions.
• There are no legal chemicals to permanently kill or to specifically control Crabgrass!  The chemical, Asulox, which was available for many years, is no longer labeled for use on residential and commercial lawns.
• The only effective methods of control include killing the area with non-selective herbicides, such as RoundUp, and replace with new sod.  Even this doesn’t future-proof your lawn from Crabgrass.

So…how do we control Crabgrass?

1. KEEP YOUR TURF VIGOROUS! A thick turf will shade out or reduce crabgrass invasions. Don’t overwater as some crabgrass species (such as dollarweed and nutsedges) love the extra water. Often the first foothold of a crabgrass invasion is in a low, moist area, so don’t scalp your lawn when you mow it. Floratam St. Augustine should be mowed at 3 to 4 inches.
2. RAISE YOUR TOLERANCE LEVEL FOR CRABGRASS! Accept the fact that there will be some crabgrass in your lawn. Just attack it before it takes over large areas.
3. APPLY ROUNDUP AND RE-SOD! You may choose to R&R, apply Roundup (glyphosate herbicide that kills anything green) and renovate (with sod) during the rainy season or in the winter R&R means ripout and resod. Sod will establish itself better if you wait and do the job during Florida’s rainy season.
4. ATTEMPT TO USE PREEMERGENTS! This means about 3 extra applications per year and the results will never be as good as up north because the preemergents break down within a short period (3 to 6 weeks or so) in Florida’s heat and rainfall. Preemergents are effective in that they “PRE”vent the crabgrass seeds in the infested areas from sprouting.

Bottom Line

The bottom line is that Crabgrass is going to be a constant battle.  As with any lawn/landscape problem, the best solution is a proactive approach. Keep your lawn and landscape healthy and plush. If your lawn is suffering, it’s an open invitation for any weed or pest to call your lawn home.